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Tank repair
Whether a tank is repairable is decided with it empty and the walls washed down, not from the lid. A great many tanks that look finished from above turn out to need a tee and a lid.
What can be repaired and what cannot
Hairline cracking above the working level, a cracked or broken lid, a damaged inlet baffle and a corroded outlet tee are all routine repairs and all cheap against the alternative. Tees and baffles have their own page at baffle and tee replacement.
What cannot be patched is structural: cracking through the base or the seams, walls that have spalled through to the aggregate, or a steel tank that has rusted out, which nearly all eventually do. Those become tank replacement, and the bed is assessed separately so a working field is not replaced by mistake.
The assessment itself needs the tank pumped and the walls washed, which is why it happens during a tank clean rather than as a separate call.
How it works
The tank is pumped and the walls washed down, because nothing useful can be judged through liquid or scum.
Walls, base, seams, inlet, outlet and lid recorded, so you are looking at the same evidence we are.
Both numbers, honestly. Where a repair only buys two years on a tank near the end, we say so.
Repair made, the system run, and the level watched to confirm it holds where it should.
Why tanks get condemned too easily
A concrete tank from the seventies with sound walls and a new tee will outlast a lot of newer installations. Age alone tells you very little; what matters is whether the structure holds water and whether the inlet and outlet still do their job.
The expensive mistake is replacing a serviceable tank because the symptoms pointed at it, when the actual fault was downstream in the distribution box or in the bed. Those produce backups that look exactly like tank failure.
So the order is always the same: empty it, look at it, check the outlet side, then decide. We are happy to give a second opinion on a replacement quote somebody else has written, and the comparison is on septic system cost.
Repair services
The components that fail, in the order we check them.
Cracks, seams, lids and the tank structure itself.
Learn moreThe part that keeps scum out of your bed, and the cheapest to fix.
Learn moreRelevelling or replacing the box so every trench shares again.
Learn moreEffluent pumps, float switches and alarm panels.
Learn moreBrings a buried lid to grade so no future visit costs a dig.
Learn moreClearing the line, tee or lateral that is holding water back.
Learn moreCommon questions
Asked when a tank has been called finished.
Tank had a crack at the water line. They pumped it, assessed it empty, and patched it properly instead of pushing a replacement.
The inlet pipe had separated from the tank wall. Sealed with the right boot and the sinkhole by the tank stopped growing.
They repaired a corroded concrete top with a new slab section rather than replacing the whole tank. Half the cost, same result.
Assessed bare, quoted honestly, repaired in a day. The tank should outlast the house now.
Next step
Before accepting a replacement quote, have the tank emptied, washed and photographed. You get both numbers, repair and replacement.
Assessed bare · Photographed · Second opinions welcome